Posts Tagged ‘Radnor’

Trenton Plumbing Guide: Components of Trenchless Sewer Line Replacement

Monday, July 23rd, 2012

Trenchless sewer line replacement is a relatively new procedure that is growing in popularity in Trenton. It is becoming more popular largely because it is less invasive and less time consuming – and therefore less expensive – than traditional methods of replacing a sewer line.

But what goes into the trenchless replacement process? There are four main components.

Component 1: Camera Inspection

Before starting the process of replacing the sewer line, your contracting crew will first use a special flexible camera to inspect the line. This allows them to determine just how much of the sewer line needs to be replaced, so they know where to drill the holes (Component #2) and how much pipe will be needed.

Component 2: Guide Holes

Once they have a visual on what they are doing, the crew will drill a small hole in the ground at either end of the section of the line that is to be replaced. These holes – much narrower than traditional trenches – go through the ground and into the surface of the pipe below.

Component 3: Specialized Cable

Through the holes, a special cable is run from one end of the damaged line, through the pipe to the other end. One end of the cable has a special bursting head attached to it, while the other end is attached to a device that will pull it through the line. This cable will act as the guide for the new pipe.

Component 4: Durable & Flexible Piping

Attached to the bursting head, following right behind the cable, will be a length of flexible but durable piping, usually high density polyethylene (HDPE). When the cable is pulled through the old line, the bursting head breaks open the old pipe from the inside, and the new pipe gets dragged in behind to replace it.

That is about all there is to it. Just like that, your Trenton home’s busted sewer line is replaced with a new, durable piece of material that will last for many years. To learn more, give Resolve Rooter a call today!

 

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Radnor Plumbing Repair Tip: Common Sump Pump Problems

Friday, January 27th, 2012

The sump pump in your home is an important piece of equipment that pumps out excess groundwater, which prevents flooding hazards in basements and water damage to your Radnor home. If the pump stops working or won’t shut off, you can usually solve the issue yourself. During times of heavy rain and potential flooding, it’s best to check your pump on a daily basis to make sure it’s running properly.

You can maintain your pump by having it inspected by a professional plumber, and keeping the pump clean and the well free of debris. Feel free to call Resolve Rooter if you have questions about how to maintain a sump pump, or to make an appointment for an annual inspection and professional cleaning.

Most issues can be repaired easily and without the help of a plumber. Here’s a troubleshooting guide to help you solve minor issues with your pump.

Check for Electrical Problems

Always check to make sure the sump pump is fully plugged in and that there aren’t any fuses that have burned out. If there is standing water in the basement, you should take extra precautions when handling any electrical equipment, even a plug. Call a plumber or electrician for advice if you have any safety concerns.

Check the Float Switch

Just like the float in a toilet tank, the float attached to the side of your sump pump acts as a guide for turning the pump on and off. This is called the float switch, and it usually has a large bulb or other floatation device attached to a metal arm. This float detects the water level inside the well, and it turns the pump on when the water reaches a certain height in the well.

If the pump is plugged in and there are no blown circuits, move the float switch up and down to see if it will turn the pump on. Debris can get trapped underneath the float causing it to stick. If the motor is constantly running, this switch may be stuck in the “on” position if debris is lodged underneath it, or if there’s substantial corrosion.

You can actually move the entire pump around to change the position if there’s no apparent debris causing the issue. Sometimes the pump gets shifted around slightly, and the float switch cannot work properly if the pump isn’t plumb or level. Be careful not to move it too much, since it could damage the drain line attached to the pump motor.

If your motor is constantly running, and none of these steps work, the motor could overheat and stop working. Unplug the pump while you’re investigating the problem, and if none of these steps work, call a professional plumber.

Check for Clogged Filters

In addition to causing issues with the float switch, debris trapped in the screen can also cause the motor to overheat or shut down. If your filter is dirty, try to get out as much of the debris as possible, but if this doesn’t solve the issue, you could have a clogged drain line. In this case, you will need to call a professional plumber to snake out the line.

Preventative Maintenance Tips

You can prevent issues with the sump pump in your Radnor home with a few preventative maintenance tasks. Keep debris from falling into the well as much as possible, and clean out any particles that could clog the screen or affect the operation of the float switch. Occasionally inspect the pump and well for any corrosion or other concerns. If you are comfortable with the operation of your pump, drain and clean the entire well and pump at least once a year.

Lastly, call a qualified technician at Resolve Rooter for a yearly sump pump maintenance visit.

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Why Does My Sink Backup When I Run the Washing Machine? A Question from Radnor

Monday, October 24th, 2011

Every now and then something strange happens in your Radnor home that is simultaneously baffling and frustrating. Gray water from your washing machine backing up into your sink is one such problem and for many homeowners it can be an ongoing source of annoyance.

Why does this happen? To start with, know that your sink and washing machine drain lines tend to run congruent to each other. This means they combine at some point on the way to the main sewer line. So, if there is a problem after they combine, it can affect both systems.

How to Fix the Problem

First, you must pinpoint the problem. More often than not, a washing machine backup will occur in one or more sinks during or after the drain cycle of your washing machine. This may not happen every time or it may get progressively worse. It depends on why it is happening in the first place.

If the sink doesn’t back up on its own when you do the dishes or run the faucet, the clog is probably deeper in the pipes and only responds to the large volume of water being drained from your washing machine. In either case, you probably have a clog in the drainage pipe after the two combine.

Do NOT use any chemicals to clear the clog. Not only do chemicals cause damage to your pipes, which can lead to cracks and leaks later, they are not always effective at actually removing the problem – they simply minimize it in the short term.

To solve the problem, you’ll either need to plunge the sink and hopefully clear out the clog or have someone snake the line to pull the clog out of the drain pipe. If you cannot clear it on your own, it may be a good time to call a plumber for a more in-depth attempt to fix the problem.

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How to Increase Your Water Pressure in Easton

Monday, September 26th, 2011

It’s no fun when you are in the middle of taking a shower in your Easton home and the stream of water slows to a trickle. The most logical thing to blame the loss of water pressure is a toilet being flushed or a washing machine being filled. It is not uncommon for losses in water pressure to be associated with simultaneous water usage in other parts of the home.

But if low water pressure seems to be a constant problem when only one source is being used and there are no other appliances using water at the same time, you may have a bigger problem on your hands.

The first thing to do is to check the source of the water supply to your outdoor faucets. Turn the hose bibs to the fully open position and run the water. Is the pressure okay? If so, you probably have a problem indoors. While you are outside, check for any leaks in the hose bibs or faucets. A leak can cause a loss of water pressure in other plumbing circuits.

Now check the hose bibs on the lines leading to interior fittings, like faucets or showerheads, etc. Is the hose bib turned to the fully open position? Someone may have been playing with the bib and turned it down or off. If that checks out okay, take a look at all of the fittings in your plumbing fixtures. Are there any leaks? Is there standing water anywhere, indicating a leak?

If so, tighten up the affected fittings. If you need to remove any fittings to inspect or replace (i.e. a worn out washer or bushing), make sure you turn off the water supply to the fitting first.

If there are filter screens in your faucets check them for an accumulation of debris and clean if necessary. A clogged screen can greatly reduce water pressure.

Many new homes now come with a pressure regulator, which governs the water pressure going into the home. The regulator is located above ground, usually where the pipes enter the home. The pressures are usually preset by the regulator manufacturer but may not always be compatible to the local environment. If you think that may be the problem, contact a local plumbing professional for an opinion.

A disruption in the piping that feeds water into the home can also affect water pressure, such as tree roots in the pipes or a break in the line. These problems can only be diagnosed and corrected by qualified plumbing professionals. Please do not attempt to find and fix these problems as the result may be costly or even dangerous to your health.

Low water pressure can be a drag but it may also only require a quick fix.

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